An Off-Night at ‘Covo’: Hugo’s Review

Posted on February 25, 2008 by


Disclaimer: Covo in NYC has no affiliation to ‘Il Covo’ in Chicago.

Saturday night was fight night! Klitschko and Ibragimov were competing for recognition of heavy weight championship. In honor of my friend’s birthday we decided to forgo the usual delivery order from King’s Pizza and decided to eat out. UF had posted about Il Covo and there were some promising comments (not to mention the rave reviews on Yelp). I decided to go take a look for myself. First of all this is located on 12th Ave and 135th street in the Viaduct Valley. It is further north of Hudson River Café. Despite all the new construction there that particular area of the strip still needs better lighting. Even being from “the block” I couldn’t help but feel some trepidation walking down there. I remember as a kid the place was replete with negative elements. The street nowadays has a complete face lift. But the lighting issue is still a problem. Once you muster the courage to walk closer to the restaurant, though, you are pleasantly surprised at what’s inside. The place was packed! I mean wall to wall!This is the equivalent of going to some spot in the desert and finding it overpopulated!


The crowd of people eating there painted a perfect picture of great food and great fun. Upon entering you’re olfactory is welcomed by a beautiful brick oven where the pizzas are made. My friends and I were promplty directed to our seats right next to the semi-open kitchen in the back. Sounds great doesn’t it! Sitting by the kitchen we were assured prompt service. The restaurant itself is wonderfully decorated and lit with plenty of eating space. I didn’t get to see the lounge upstairs so the jury is still out on that one.

Our waiter handed us the menus and walked away. We started scanning through and noticed the prices were quite, quite comfortable! Reminded me of that Times articlewhere some commenters were calling for more normal priced restaurants/bars in Harlem. After looking at the menu I said, “Yes! This is how it’s done! Regular pasta dishes went for 9-12 bucks. The bigger entrees went for a couple bucks extra. Quite excited (and not to mention famished) we started to make our selections. 15 minutes went by before we noticed that we still had not gotten any water or asked if we wanted to drink anything. We flagged down our waiter and asked for water. We then placed our orders. We also asked for some sodas. When the drinks arrived we noticed that each of our glasses had exactly 2-4 ice-cubes. It looked a bit weird so we simply asked for more ice. Another 15 minutes passed by and a thought hit us. Don’t they have any type of bread to start? I peeked around and noticed breadbaskets on every one’s table. Our table? None. So we flagged down our waiter again and asked for some bread. Struck me as odd that we had to ask for that.

The appetizers came some minutes afterward. On the culinary end, everything tasted fine. About 20 minutes after that our plates arrived. We asked for another round of drinks and once again we got the glasses with 3 ice cubes. At this point we were feeling quite uncomfortable. Especially when we saw our waiter spending a good 10-12 minutes telling other diners about the specials and the wines with quite the smile. We never got that speech…or the smile. Furthermore, another group sat down behind us and their tables had water glasses and bread within 3 minutes of sitting down. All these little annoyances started adding up to a bad taste in our mouths (figuratively, of course). The food itself was on point. My friends we had fettuccine, lamb, rabbit even. Everyone was happy with their food. But this wasn’t enough to remove the discomfort of feeling snubbed by our waiter. Dessert was out of the question at this point. We wanted to pay our check and leave.

As we were exiting my brother asked to speak to a manager. The host tried to lend her help in resolving the situation. My brother was more frank that I would have been. But in not-so-many-words he told her that it seemed (at least on the outside) that there was some kind of discrimination occurring in the way we were treated versus everyone else in the restaurant. My brother pointed out the lackluster waiter to the host. He came to attention and started to apologize profusely. None of us were satisfied by the apology. They made no other attempt to rectify this than by simply saying
sorry. And as far as we were concerned the manager never came to speak to us.

I personally felt quite offended by the treatment we received. Especially since no reviews seemed to indicate anything less than a fine eating experience. I cannot say in all honesty that I would recommend this place. I will try to return once more when the weather is warmer and I’ll chalk this unpleasantry to a fluke for now. I hope to be proved wrong. It’s quite a shame because this particular area in West Harlem really benefits from a good, reasonably-priced Italian restaurant. It seems I will have to stick to Café Largo and Pisticci for now.

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Posted in: Restaurants, Reviews