Un Dia en Spanish Harlem

Posted on November 10, 2006 by


chicken.jpgNEW YORK (AP) — Begin with breakfast in the Dominican Republic: cafe con leche and mashed plantains. Have the churrasco — barbecued meat — for lunch at a Brazilian buffet. Later, snack on a Colombian fruit shake, then stop at a Mexican taqueria for dinner. After dark, hit a salsa club.

You can take this tour of Latin America all in a day, without ever leaving New York City. A new book called “Nueva York: The Complete Guide to Latino Life in The Five Boroughs” shows you how.

“When we have people coming in from out of town, we don’t want to just show them Times Square, the Empire State Building, the Statue of Liberty,” said Carolina Gonzalez, who co-authored “Nueva York” with Seth Kugel. “We actually want to show them the real New York, and to us, part of that real New York is all these different great Latin neighborhoods.”

New York City is 27 percent Hispanic, according to the 2000 Census, and one of the most heavily Dominican neighborhoods is Washington Heights, in northern Manhattan. At a restaurant here called El Malecon, breakfast for four, with eggs, juices, fried cheese and mangu — mashed plantain — runs about $30, including cafe con leche — “like a latte at one-tenth the price,” said Kugel.

But El Malecon “is really known more than anything for their chickens that you see twisting around in the rotisserie,” Kugel added. “You can actually smell them for several blocks around.”

Across the street, at La Plaza de las Americas, an outdoor market, look for bargains on yuca, papayas and avocados. Nearby, Centro Botanico y Esoterico Gran Bua sells perfumes and statuettes to solve any problem. Saleswoman Odette Pichardo says the best-sellers are always love potions — like a fragrance called “Garrapata,” which means tick, suggesting its power to latch on. If old-fashioned florals are more your style, bottles of gardenia scent runs just $5.

At Rancho Jubilee, it’s not just the food that evokes the Dominican Republic — it’s the decor, from the palm trees to the donkey saddles to a little tin stove mounted over the entrance, all imported from the D.R. The wooden chairs crackle when you sit down, to “remind you of sitting on your grandmother’s porch in the rural Dominican Republic,” said Kugel.

Now head to East Harlem, where Puerto Rican flags fly from many windows. At Carlitos Cafe, Tuesdays are open mic nights. At Casa Latina, shop for Latin music from the 1930s on, or pick up a “Salsaholic” T-shirt.

For art lovers, there’s El Museo del Barrio on Fifth Avenue, at the northern end of Museum Row, and the Taller Boricua galleries at Julia de Burgos Latino Cultural Center, named for the Puerto Rican poet. A mosaic of de Burgos has just been installed on 106th Street, while a mural at Lexington and 104th called “The Spirit of East Harlem” depicts community life, from kids playing basketball to an old man playing guitar.

Read the whole story here

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Posted in: East Harlem