Review: Melba’s

Posted on October 4, 2006 by


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Melba’s

Classic elegance is the best way to describe the dining experience I had at Melba’s restaurant, located on the corner of Frederick Douglas and 114th Street in Harlem. You will find yourself disappointed if you are expecting a huge dining room or a second level of seating, but Melba’s can’t be described as being cramped and they certainly make the best of the limited legroom. The lighting, provided by over-sized black trimmed chandeliers, is set low for ambiance. The tables for two are arranged in different configurations depending on the size of the dining party. The music, set at the right tempo and level to complement the upbeat conversation of the patrons. Melba’s is that neighborhood place where you go to relax, converse and enjoy a good meal.

I found myself at Melba’s upon the recommendation of a friend who lives in the neighborhood. She couldn’t stop raving about the Tres Macaroni and Cheese that seems to be the chef’s specialty. Melba describes her food as “American Comfort Food.” After experiencing the most perfect meal I have had in a Harlem establishment in a long time, I would have to agree.

We started with the spinach and cheese empanadas under the “comfortizers” section of the menu. The crust was light and flaky and the empanadas were not oily. We then moved on to the entrees. Taking the advice of the police officer at the next table, I ordered the wine braised short ribs, with seasoned collard greens and tres mac and cheese on the side. The portions were just enough to fill me up quite comfortably. I even had a small amount leftover for the next day.

Let me start in alphabetical order, the braised short ribs couldn’t have been more perfect. They were tender and tasty. The chef had obviously slow cooked them for hours and seasoned them generously. The collard greens were surprisingly spicy. One of my biggest complaints about soul food restaurants in Harlem is the lack of kick in their cooking. I had no complaints about the tender, tangy greens that I received at Melba’s. The thought of the tres mac and cheese still leaves my mouth-watering. The artistry of this dish is the stuff of culinary legends. The blend of cheeses, the consistency, the seasoning was incomparable to anything else I have tasted outside of someone’s home kitchen.

Because of the space constraints, you will want to make reservations for large parties and get there early on the weekends if you don’t want to wind up seated in the row of tables in the middle of the room. For those who like to imbibe, the bartender certainly knows what she is doing over there. Choose your drinks wisely.

All in all, Melba’s has quickly moved up to the top of my list when thinking of restaurants with simply good food. They may not have the same ambiance as some of the surrounding restaurants cropping up in Harlem but they are tops when it comes to the quality, freshness, and taste of their food. If I were to assign stars with 5 being the best, I would give them 5 stars for the food, 3 for presentation, 3 for décor, 2 and a half for service, and 4 for value.

If you go, be sure to say hello to Melba who is sure to greet you and tell her that UPTOWN flavor sent you to try the tres mac and cheese. Be sure to thank the chef too before you leave. The compliment will bring a smile to his face.

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Melba’s

300 West 114th Street (Cross Street: Frederick Douglass Boulevard)

New York, NY 10026

View Map

(212) 864-7777

melbasrestaurant.com

Directions: B or C to 116th St; 1 to 116th St-Columbia University stop

Hopstop.com

Photo credit: Tonya C.

Related: Sharon Q.

Melba's on Urbanspoon

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